In this post-pandemic episode of Uncorked, Polly Hammond is joined by veteran wine writer Adam Lechmere for a boots-on-the-ground debrief of the London Wine Fair. With insight, wit, and a critical eye, Lechmere walks us through the evolving landscape of wine trade shows, the rise of canned and natural wines, and how movements like regenerative agriculture are shaping the future of wine storytelling.
A Village Fair with Global Implications
Lechmere paints a charming picture of this year’s London Wine Fair—more village fête than global behemoth. Unlike the intensity of ProWein, the Fair struck a balance between conviviality and commerce. “There’s a mellowness to the London Wine Fair,” Adam explains, “but it still delivers real business value.”
Beyond the big-name exhibitors, the event gave visibility to emerging producers and fringe regions like Uzbekistan and Ukraine. But the standout moments came from smaller, often younger brands breaking through with energy and innovation.
Canned Wines: More Than a Gimmick
Among the buzziest trends? Canned wines. Producers like Copper Crew and When in Rome showed up in force, proving that alternative formats can offer serious quality. “This isn’t spritzy picnic plonk,” says Adam. “These are wines I’d be happy to serve at dinner.” While trade interest remains modest, the seeds are clearly being planted—and it’s only a matter of time before they take root.
Part of their success lies in how these founders show up. Rather than relying on distributors, brand reps were pouring and pitching themselves, bringing contagious energy to the stand. “That level of storytelling, that direct engagement—it matters,” Polly adds. “It’s often the difference between someone stopping or walking on.”
Natural Wines Grow Up
Natural wines were also well represented, particularly among UK distributors like Graft Wine (formerly Red Squirrel). Adam notes a significant shift in quality. “Ten years ago, you might taste ten wines and only three were any good. Now, seven or eight are excellent.” While these wines are becoming more polished, there’s a risk of losing the eccentricity that first drew drinkers in.
And here lies a communications challenge: how do we talk about natural wine without falling into outdated tropes? As Polly points out, “The producers have evolved—but our messaging hasn’t always kept pace.”
The Rise of Regenerative Agriculture—and Patagonia’s Entry
One of the most compelling developments Adam flags is the mainstreaming of regenerative agriculture. What was once a niche topic for soil geeks is now being brought to consumers by brands like Patagonia Provisions, which has moved from smoked salmon into cider, sake, and now wine.
Patagonia’s entry isn’t just symbolic—they have brand recognition, retail clout, and a proven purpose-driven ethos. But, as Polly notes, “most wine brands don’t have the reach or voice that Patagonia does. How can smaller wineries compete in that same sustainability space?”
The answer, according to Adam, may lie in measurable impact and clear communication. “Patagonia can help prove that regenerative practices are not just good—they’re viable. And that could be a game-changer.”
Luxury vs Sustainability: Can Both Coexist?
The conversation ends with a look at the opposite end of the spectrum: the £30,000 bottle of Liber Pater poured at Annabel’s. While some in the trade view this as tone-deaf, Adam offers a nuanced take. “The winemaker’s methods are respected by peers—there’s rigor behind the price tag, even if it’s not to everyone’s taste.”
More broadly, the conversation returns to a central issue in wine communication: the tendency to lump everything under one message. From canned wines to cult bottlings, Patagonia to Prosecco, the wine world is vast—and audiences are not all the same.
“We need better segmentation, not just in marketing, but in storytelling,” Polly emphasizes. “It’s okay that not every wine is for every person. But we need to be clear about who it is for.”
Key Takeaways from Polly and Adam’s Conversation
- The Wine Fair is back—and more relatable: Community and purpose matter as much as commerce in today’s trade events.
- Canned wines are legit: Forget the stigma—quality is up, and storytelling is strong.
- Natural Wine has evolved: It’s time to update our language to match the producers’ progress.
- Regenerative Agriculture is going mainstream: Patagonia’s involvement may bring new credibility and market opportunity.
- Storytelling needs nuance: From high-end to everyday, wine needs better segmentation and smarter communication.
Whether you’re pouring from a can or decanting a four-figure bottle, the wine industry is in a moment of transformation—and the way we talk about it matters more than ever.
